Changtse Expedition
Joint Changtse Expedition Fixed Depature
Date: Sep 07, 2012
The first ascent of Changtse was unofficially made on October 3, 1982 by Johan Takes of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing Everest from the north side. However, Takes climbed Changste without a permit.
1982 The first official ascent of Changste with a permit was completed 11 days later on October 14 by five members of a German expedition Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometre-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier. In 1983 the next ascent (first solo) was made by Chilean climber Gino Casassa May 14, 1983 via the same route used by the Germans.
In1986 Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition. This expedition of eight Japanese and 16 Chinese on the summit on May 10,11- 1986 again via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier; which included the first ascent by a woman Mrs. Gunsung.
In 1986 American climber Ed Webster made the first solo ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on August 28, 1986. Most of this climb was done at night, taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions. In the 1987 Australian climbers Rob Turner and Glen Nash reached the summit on September 29, 1987 via the north face ice wall (Japanese 1986 route) despite high winds.
Changtse is located adjacently north of Everest hence the name Changtse which is Tibetan for north peak. 2 other well-known peaks of the Everest-group; Lhotse (4th highest mountain in world) and Nuptse mean respectively south and west-peak. Changtse was first ascended in October 1982; officially by a German expedition; but in fact it had already been climbed by the Dutch climber Johan Taks; only 11 days before. I bet the Germans must have thought the peak was still virgin.... Taks was a member of the 1982 Dutch Everest-expedition (Tibetan side; east Rongbuk), and climbed the mountain apparently without a permit against the will of the other expedition members. Nowadays the mountain receives little attention; only 1 or 2 (Chinese) additional expeditions have been listed.
Changtse Expedition Itinerary |
Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
28 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 6 Nights Kathmandu, 28 Nights Lodge/Camping
Season: Autumn and Spring
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu - Preparing Expedition
Day 03: Kathmandu, Preparing Expedition & visas
Day 04: Drive from Kathmadu to Zangmu (2350m) hotel.
Day 05: Drive Nyalam hotel.
Day 06: acclimatization Hotel
Day 07: Drive Tingri - Hotel
Day 08: Drive to Base camp of Nojin Kangsang 7191m camping
Day 09: Acclimatization - camping
Day 10: Prepare yak for BC to ABC - camping
Day 11: Middle camp - camping
Day 12: Middle camp - ABC 5000m camping
Day 13-29: Climbing period for summit to Changtse (7550m).
Day 30: Advance Base Camp - Base camp
Day 31: drive Base camp - Zhangmu
Day 32: Drive to Kathmandu
Day 33: Kathmandu
Day 34: Kathmandu
Day 35: Final Departure
| Expenses For Climbing In Tibet: The cost for International Changtse expedition will depend on several different factors. The types of accommodation you prefer in Kathmandu and during the trek to Changtse base camp will make a difference to the overall cost (Budget to 5 star accommodations). The mode of transport you prefer will also affect the cost of your climbing Changtse trip, for example prices vary greatly between flying versus private car/van. The size of climbing team as well number of climbing guide and porters required will also affect the total cost of the expedition. For these reasons on the same program for climb to Changtse can vary in price quite substantially. |
Expedition Cost includes:
- 6 nights hotel in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star Level).
- Expedition Nepalese crews: Professional Expedition Cook, Kitchen boy, at Base Camp - Advance Base Camp. Equipment) allowances, daily ways, lodging & food expedition en-route
- Tibet visa & Travel Permit for expedition crew
- Full board hotel in route Tibet side (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner) Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri
- Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person North Face
- Dining tent, Table and Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent
- Per person (40 KG) Load Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp carry by Yak
- Per person (30 KG) Load Advanced Base Camp to Base Camp carry by Yak
- Kathmandu - Zhangmu - BC - Zhangmu - Kathmandu (Mini-Bus, Jeep & Truk).
- Peak permit for Changtse
- Tibet Visa & Travel permit
- Liaison officer & Interpreter
- Nepalese crew' insurance
- ABC – Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator
- Expedition T-short with Expedition name.
- Welcome dinner
Cost does not includes:
- Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
- Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
- Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
- International departure tax.
- Personal Expenses.
- Medical and rescue insurance.
- Personal Climbing equipment.
- Bar bills & Beverage.
- Medicine and first aid for expedition.
- Garbage Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
- Conservation fee USD 20 Per person.
- Walkie-Talkie.
- Extra Yak, Per Yak USD 150 (carry 40KG)
Note: After the Expedition, Tipping system is well come for expedition crews from your generosity if you are happy with the staffs of the company. We wish you a happy and successful climbing.
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 500.00
Satellite phone: USD 700.00
