Cho Oyu 8201m. Expedition
Spring 2012
Entry/Exit: Zhangmu
Fixed Departure: April 10, 2012
Expedition Overview
Austrian first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee of this Cho Oyu Mountain in the field of expedition. The golden jubilee ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers from different region of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit.
Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route. Himalayan Yetiland Treks and Expedition is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side. We also had Golden jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition in Autumn 2004.
Meeting and climbing information:
Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet the staff of Himalayan Yetiland Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we have introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.
After 3 days, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway, where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transport meet us. The expedition gears go by truck while we travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization.
Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along rough way with jerking & bouncing through grassy plain leading up to Chinese base camp.
We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, depending on how everyone feels. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards advanced base camp (ABC) begins.
ABC is in the heart of the Himalaya at 5700m; surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La nearby which is an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet.
From ABC, we can see the superb scene of Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp and we plan to stay here for the longer duration to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves.
From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly.
Camp 1 is either perched more or less on the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and we climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up. We should fix a new rope in co-operation with other expeditions on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is crevassed but normally these creates no problems.
Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you will carefully assess where to put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3 are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.
Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands the slopes are still reasonably steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions. However once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau.
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west are the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north is pure Tibet. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and continue down.
Mt. Cho Oyu Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1350m.) transfer hotel
Day 02: Kathmandu
Day 03: Kathmandu
Day 04: Drive to Kodari & transfer Zhangmu 2300m.-Hotel
Day 05: Drive Nylam 2750m. - Hotel
Day 06: Nylam rest for acclimatization
Day 07: Drive Tingri 4340m. - Hotel
Day 08: Rest of day for acclimatized
Day 09: Drive to Chinese Base Camp 5000m. Camping
Day 10: Chinese Base Camp
Day 11: Prepared load to Yak for Advance BC 5700m.
Day 12: Base Camp - Middle camp with Yaks
Day 13: Middle Camp - Cho Oyu Advance Base Camp
Day 14-39: Climbing Period for Cho Oyu 8201m.
Day 40: Advance Base camp - Chinese Base camp
Day 41: Drive Zhangmu
Day 42: Drive Zhangmu - Kathmandu
Day 43: Kathmandu
Day 44: Kathmandu
Day 45: Final Departure
Expedition Cost includes:
- 5 nights hotel in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast.
- Expedition Nepalese crews: Professional Expedition Cook, Kitchen boy, at Base Camp- Advance Base Camp. Equipment) allowances, daily ways, expedition insurance for ABC crews, lodging en-route, visa for Tibet
- Full board hotel in route Tibet side (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
- Chinese Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person
- Dining tent, Table and Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, expedition crew tent
- Per person (50 KG) Load Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp.
- Per person (40 KG) Load Advanced Base Camp to Base Camp.
- Kathmandu - Zhangmu - BC & back all transfer by Bus Nepal side & Jeep & Truck in Tibet side. [ Coaster / Land Cruiser ].
- Peak permit for Cho Oyu 8201m
- Tibet Visa & Travel permit
- Oxygen, Satellite phone (pay call) and Gamow Bag.
- Liaison officer & Interpreter
- Nepalese crew' insurance
Cost does not include:
1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu .
2. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu .
3. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
4. Entry visa into Nepal. This can be obtained at the airport upon arrival
5. Re-entry visa for Nepal .
6. Departure tax at Kathmandu airport for international flight.
7. Personal Expenses
8. Medical and rescue insurance.
9. Climbing equipment & Personal gear.
10. Bar bills & Beverage
11. Rescue Jeep.
12. Medicine and first aid for expedition.
13. Garbage Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person)
14. Walkie-Talkie
