Mt. Pumori 7145m. Expedition

Spring/Autumn
International Mt. Pumori Expedition Fixed Departure
April 16, 2012/September 25, 2012

Height: Mt. Pumori 7,161m.
Latitude: 28° 00′ 53″
Longitude: 86° 49′ 41″
Trip Duration: 35 Days
Normal Ascent Route: normal route
Grade: Mountaineering
Caravan Route: KTM - Lukla - Namche Bazaar - Dingboche - Lobuche - Pumori BC

Mt. Pumori, the pyramid shaped 7145m. high peak also known as unmarried daughter in Sherpa language dominates the skyline behind Kalpatthar view point. The trekker who has made the trip to Everest region, remember Mt. Pumori’s distinctive shape. Mount Pumori is just standing in front of mount Everest, which always attract to climbers to  have a experience before scale 8,000m. high mountain.

The expedition trip starts from Kathmandu and flight into Lukla. It will take 5/6 days to reach in Pumori base camp 5300m., trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mt. Pumori has generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. For one such climber this mountain could become the most rewarding challenger in the Himalaya.

Himalayan Yetiland Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. provides for expedition with all necessary infrastructures to assist you in your summit attempt. We will do the necessary paperwork for expedition permit organize all accommodation before and after expedition. We organize camp facilities, transport loads, stock and set up high camps, fix ropes, provide food, high altitude food, high quality tents, porters, professional Climbing Sherpas, advice and assistance to maximize your chance of success.

Camp I: After a 3 hrs. walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After that, you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks, mixed climb traverse, steep, and exposed to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also. 

Camp II: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees above-5000m high, is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now camp III: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice wall’s way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on it's vertex Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak  by applying this route. As you know, Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; who will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori.

You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori .

You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge. You can ascend the summit from the camp 3 to the zenith of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb.

South - West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapatthar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably reach on its Top.

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 02: Equipment Check/hire, Obtain Permit etc.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding.
Day 04: Trekking to Namche Bazaar
Day 05: Rest/ Acclimatization Day in Namche
Day 06: Trekking to Tyangboche.
Day 07: Trekking to Pheriche
Day 08: Trekking to Lobuche
Day 09: Lobuche BC*
Day 10: Lobuche Climbing
Day 11: contingency day for bad weather etc
Day 12: Summit Lobuche and Back to Lobuche BC
Day 13: Pumori BC [Settle in Pumori BC 5310 meter]
Day 14-29: Climbing periode Pumori Summit
Day 30: Clean Base Camp
Day 31: Trekking down to Pangboche
Day 32: Trekking down to Namche Bazaar
Day 33: Trekking to Lukla
Day 34: Fly back to Kathmand

Expedition Cost in group joining basis/private team:
US $ / Euro          Per Person
Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 1900 (if required by climber)

Cost includes:

• 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast with Tourist Standard Hotel.
• Permit fee of Pumori 7145m.Expedition
• Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Pumori
• Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
• Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
• Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 30 KG Per member
• Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
• Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
• 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
• Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
• Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
• Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
• Satellite phone (Pay calls)
• Fare Well dinner

Cost does not includes:

• PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking.
• Personal & medical Insurance of expedition.
• Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp.
• Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
• Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed.
• Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit.
• Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
• Personal expenses.
• Bar Bills & beverage.

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