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Mount Shishapangm is one of the very lovely mountain
of China, which lies in the autonomous region called
the Tibet of China, only a very few people in the world
had idea about the Shishapangma before the Chinese opened
Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978. The Tibetans
regard it as the very holy mountain. It is the youngest
mountain among the peaks situated above the height of
8000m, and there are only fourteen mountains above in
the 8000m high Himalayan ranges. Till to date many climbers
have succeeded to approach on its apex.
Route
The North West normal route to Shishapangma takes us
up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one
steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and
placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following
our acclimatization in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will
arrive at the base camp (5000m) to make ready our final
preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport
our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at
5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.
Camp 1 - 6,730m - After 6-7 hours
walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snowy
slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed.
Camp 2 - 7,045m - After 5-6 hours
we reach camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very gentle
ground below the northwest ridge.
Camp 3 - 7,400m - From Camp 3, it
takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation
of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of
the physical fitness; and also the favorable condition
of the weather depends the climbing ahead.
Some times the extra additional days are also required
for acclimatization at different places until climbers
succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering
early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base
camp before the prescribed time as well.
Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition
Austrian first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and
German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964
respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have
successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was
regarded as the Golden jubilee of this Cho Oyu Mountain
in the field of expedition. The golden jubilee ceremony
was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with
grand fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers
from different region of the World during this golden
jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit.
Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet
side due the easy technique-climbing route from there.
Since 1998, our company "Monterosa Treks and Expedition"
is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side. We
also had our teams to the Golden jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition
in autumn 2004.
We set up our camp at Cho Oyu Base Camp after Shishapangma
Expedition and it takes 2 days drive from Shishapangma
Base camp to Cho Oyu base camp. You are staying 1 night
or more, which depends on the feeling of our members.
We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base
camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali
cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards the
advance base camp (ABC) begins.
ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded
by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called
Nangpa La nearby which, an old but still used yak track
trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.
From ABC, we can see the superb scene of Cho Oyu .
This is the main base camp and we plan to stay there
for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation
for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own
tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after
that the climbers should manage all services by themselves.
From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a
vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start
of the mountaineering properly.
Camp 1 is either situated more or
less on the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering
starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough
for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb
successive huge steps, several of which probably require
fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in
co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally
one rope is used for ascent and another for descent.
Although the route is crevassed but normally these creates
no problems
Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau
at 7125m although you can carefully assess where to
put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you
may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish
a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor
ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps
where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit
ascent.
Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp
3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still
steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending
on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge
the terrain is straightforward although it is a long
haul to the summit plateau.
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including
Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang
7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest
region to the east and south. To the west, there are
the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north,
there are all Tibet area. It is normal to descend to
Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the ABC.
Climbing Sherpa for Himalayan:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and
qualified climbing Sherpas for the your expeditions.
Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing,
so because of this, they have been found to facing many
hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with
you on the expedition, they are very useful in your
each and every step of support, which makes your climbing
easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives
you vigorous strength for your next day's climbing.
Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides
on the expedition, is found to be succeeded as per our
past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your
expeditions along with the Sherpa guides.
Booking:
IIf you like to book us for the expedition you can
log on to our web http://www.himalayanyetiland.com, for
online booking you should deposit us USD 500.00 bank
transfer in our bank account in advance which enables
you for your secured seats. After this deposition, your
expedition will be final confirmed; and in case if you
cancel the expedition, the deposition will not be refunded.
This is the terms and conditions of our company.
Mount Shishapangma 8012m. &
Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition
Fixed departure
31 March 2008
Itinerary:
28 March 2008 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1350m.) and
transfer to Hotel
29 March 2008 Day 02: Preparing Expedition
30 March 2008 Day 03: Preparing expedition
31 March 2008 Day 04: Drive to Kodari, Transfer to Zhangmu
2300m.
01 April 2008 Day 05: Drive Nylam 3750m. Over night
at hotel
02 April 2008 Day 06: Nylam rest for acclimatization
03 April 2008 Day 07: Drive to Chinese Base camp
04 April 2008 Day 08: Acclimatization
05 April 2008 Day 09: Prepare load for Advance Base
Camp 5200m.
06 April 2008 Day 10: Trek to Middle Camp
08 April 2008 Day 11: Trek to Advance Base Camp 5700m.
08-25 April 2008 Day 12-29: Climbing Period Shishapangama
8,012m.
26 April 2008 Day 30: Trek to Base Camp
27 April 2008 Day 31: Drive Tingri 4340m. - Hotel
28 April 2008 Day 32: Drive to Chinese Base Camp 5200m
29 April 2008 Day 33: Prepared load to Yak for ABC.
Camping
30 April 2008 Day 34: Base Camp - Middle camp with Yaks
01 May 2008 Day 35: Middle Camp - Cho Oyu Advance Base
Camp
02-15 May 2008: Day 36-50: Climbing Period for Cho Oyu
8201m.
16 May 2008 Day 51: Advance Base camp - Chinese Base
camp
17 May 2008 Day 52: Drive Tingri - Zhangmu
18 May 2008 Day 53: Drive Zhangmu - Kathmandu
19 May 2008 Day 54: Kathmandu
20 May 2008 Day 55: Final Departure
Cost:
1 Per Person US$ 16,000.00
2 Persons, Per person USD 12,000.00
3 Persons, Per person USD 10,000.00
4-6 Persons, Per Person USD 9,000.00
7-10 Persons, Per Person USD 8,500.00
11 or more persons, Per Person USD 8,000.00
Climbing guide for Shishapangma US$ 3000.00 Per guide
Climbing guide for Shishapangm & Cho Oyu USD 5500.00
Per guide
Cost includes:
5 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed &
breakfast (3 star hotel) [ Hotel Manang ].
Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook,
Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till
to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition
facilities from our office itself.
Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam-
Tingri (bed- breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North
Face brand)
Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent &
Kitchen tent
Per person's (40+40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till
to the from Base Camp to ABC
Per person's (30+30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on
the way back to the ABC to the BC
Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Shishapangma Base Camp - Cho Oyu
Base camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini
bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu. (5 Days)
Peak permit for Shishapangma 8012m. & Cho Oyu 8201m.
Tibet Visa & Travel permit
Liaison officer & Interpreter
Nepalese crew' insurance
ABC - Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator
Satellite phone (Pay call).
Expedition T-shirts with Expedition label
Welcome dinner.
Cost does not include:
Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items
of personal nature.
Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
International departure tax.
Personal Expenses.
Medical and rescue insurance.
Personal Climbing equipment.
Bar bills & Beverage.
Rescue Jeep USD 700.00
Medicine and first aid expenses
Walkie-Talkie.
Note: After the Expedition, Tipping system is well come
for expedition crews from your generosity if you are
happy with the staffs of the company. We wish you a
happy and successful climbing.
Our motto is to appease our clients. Thanks.
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 400.00
Satellite phone : US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from
climber)
Film Permit : US$ 5000.00 (Small Portable movie camera
is free)
Duty Jeep : US$ 3000.00
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