Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet the staff of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we have introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for the Everest Expedition.
After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway, where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transport meet us. The expedition gears go by truck while we travel by Land cruiser 4wd. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization.
Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5400m along rough way with jerking & bouncing through grassy plain leading up to Everest BC which is also called Chinese base camp.
We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, depending on how everyone feels. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards advanced base camp (ABC) begins.
After waking 2 days, we reach to ABC 6400m along with the Yaks. From ABC the route goes to the east Rongbuk (Everest Base) glacier and after that there is an easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7000m. Where camp 1 is situated on snow.
After that there is a long reasonably angled snow slopes to climb 7400m. Where we should put camp 2 on snow. The route from Camp 2 to camp 3 is the series of the rocks which is little bit difficult, but again there is a very easy terrain to walk ahead to set up camp 3. This camp 3 is at the height of 7900m on the rock.
The route again goes through a series of rocky climbs, and then there is a median angled snow slopes where we have to climb on mixed rocks and snow until we reach camp 4 at 8400m. Now this camp is on the rock but some times ago it was snow covered. To reach there, we have to fix ropes on climbing but there are safety lines which provide you safe place when you are tired and wind is blowing. This route is mostly very windy especially between camp 2 to camp 3.
Camp 4 is the last camp for Everest summit from North East Ridge. Now route is mixed rocks and snow steps. This step is quite steep in many places so you require very considerable care for yourself, for your clothing and oxygen equipments.
After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with little bit height until we go ahead where we fix rope. Above there the climbing is little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is series of small nude ridge which is some times covered with snow.
After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead. Again after that section of the route, we should fix rope. Above these steps, route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not series as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest. |
